Monday, March 23, 2009

marañones...

I was going through pictures and found this snapshot of a cashew tree. I took it in El Salvador during a rural stay with the intention of posting it, but never got around to it. Perhaps you're already well-acquainted with the cashew tree - but I was shocked to see that this is how marañones (cashews) grow!

The red part is a fruit that can be used to make juice, wine or jelly. The nut that we buy at home is encased in a thick shell (seen at the bottom, the gray part). I was at the point of biting into it to see if I could break it open (since my nails weren't working) and my coworker enlightened me that the shell contains the same skin irritant as poison ivy. Crisis averted! Thought I'd share in case you ever find a cashew fruit in your hand and you consider biting into it.

Monday, March 16, 2009

long awaited victory!

It's still somewhat unbelievable to me, but the FMLN won! (Makes me smile just to type that.)

Sunday evening was nerve racking and intense and glorious as we watched results roll in from the elections. We happened upon a political rally of sorts, which turned into a celebration with the announcement of the victory. Fireworks and caravans through the streets - people couldn't contain their joy.

And what a long-awaited joy for so many. Our driver today was telling me that this is the first time in his life (he's in his mid 60's) that the presidential candidate he voted for has won. His vote, along with that of many others, finally meant something, validating people who felt unheard even after fighting a 12 year war. I'm so happy for those who have waited and am grateful for the absence of blatant, widespread fraud. And I'll admit, I'm hopeful (and optimistic) that the space created for change will be well utilized.

Friday, March 13, 2009

three days...

Three days until the presidential elections here and although the campaigns have to officially 'close' four days before elections - the intensity in the atmosphere hasn't dropped at all. I didn't get to be home during the final days of the McCain/Obama race - so it's difficult to compare - but there are certainly differences that are bizarre and maddening.

Before I delve into my thoughts - a bit of context: There are currently two parties in the race (there were more, but they were bought out or dropped out). The right-wing, conservative party is called Arena and the left party was originally created out of the guerrilla movement from the war and is called the FMLN. Arena has been in power for more than 20 years and has historically been very buddy-buddy with the United States.

This time around, the FMLN chose a candidate from outside of the party, viewed as more of an independent, and has done well. This time around the FMLN had an enourmous lead (17.6%) coming into these last pre-election months. But regardless of the fact that El Salvador is a democracy, elections seem to be lacking a lot in order to be 'free and fair'.

It seems each day of the last two weeks I've heard or seen an Arena tactic that has made my stomach turn - the worst of these involving factory/big business owners. The press found out a few weeks back that employees of large factories and numerous international companies were told that the Monday after elections, they would have to show a picture of their ballot (with a vote for Arena), taken with their cell phone, to their employer or they would be fired.

In the mayoral elections in January, Arena knowingly bussed in people from Guatemala and Nicaragua to vote for their parties and gave them official IDs to do so. Apparently this is something that's been happening for years, but since the party in power is the one commiting the crime, there have been no repercussions, or ways to prevent it from happening in the future.

And perhaps the most upsetting, since I'm a gringa, is seeing the claims made on the front pages of the newspapers (almost entirely owned by Arena) stating: 'Untied States fears connection with Chavez' or 'United States Congress - TPS in danger with FMLN'. Headlines based on the statement a specific right leaning organization or a specific congress person at home - not the entirety of the United States. But these statements envoke fear, bring to mind uncertainty and are thus effective.

Any campaign gets dirty, but let these people have their vote without threatening their job or robbing them of its value by executing fraud in such a huge, blatantly disrespectful way. And if you're not willing to do so, then I don't think you should necessarily be labeled a democracy or use the party slogan of "Arena - I vote for my liberty".

I watched rioting in Managua after an electoral process filled with alleged fraud. The question here isn't even whether or not fraud will happen, it's 'How much?' and "Will it be enough to win?" I also watched the United States "freeze" it's financial aid to Nicaragua "due" to the fraud and lack of transparency. Will we have the integrity to do the same if the party commiting fraud is one we have historically supported rather than a system that identifies itself as 'socialist'? And why the double standard?

Three days until the elections and we're hoping that whatever the outcome, people's votes count.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Un pacto de amor...

Debemos hacer algo en esta tierra
Porque en este planeta nos parieron
Y hay que arreglar las cosas de los hombres
Porque no somos pajaros ni perros


We should do something on this earth

Because we were delivered to this planet
And we must set right the things of men
Because we are neither birds nor dogs.


Y bien, si cuando ataco lo que odio

O cuando canto a todos los que quiero
La poesia quiere abandonar
Las esperanzas de mi manifesto,
Yo sigo con las tablas de mi ley
Acumulando estrellas y armamentos


And so, if when I attack what I hate,
Or when I sing to those I love,
Poetry wants to abandon
The hopes of my manifesto,

I’ll follow the letter of my law
Accumulating stars and armaments

Y en el Duro deber americano
No me importa una rosa mas o menos;
Tengo un pacto de amor con la hermosura
Tengo un pacto de sangre con mi pueblo.

And in my steadfast duty to america
One more or one less rose does not matter;
I have a pact of love with beauty
I have a pact of blood with my people.

- Pablo Neruda, No Me Lo Pides/Do Not Ask Me

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

unholy wedlock...

"These countries are now united in unholy wedlock and divorce isn't possible...this situation isn't going away." - Dean Brackley, Professor at la UCA

The longer I'm here the more I learn about all of the ways that my home is tied to these countries I visit, how connected all of the americas really are. This is especially evident here in El Salvador, not just in US foreign policy, or the fact that I use United States dollars to pay for my Cinnabon.

My passion for Latin America was born out of immigration and the the necessity for it and the jarring dichotomy of success and growth along with the great tradgedy of it on both personal and systemic levels. Somewhere between 500 and 700 El Salvadorans immigrate to the states every day. Another 143 are caught crossing the southern US border. Every day. The gap between the cost of living here and the minimum wage is sickening and families in El Salvador that don't depend on a relative in the states are rare.

How did we get here? This is a tiny country that the United States spent over 10 years investing 1.5 million dollars a day into during the war. Regarless of how, it seems clear to me that we're painfully connected at this point.